The Home Inspector

Polybutylene Plumbing Problems

Q: My home inspector identified polybutylene plumbing in the home I am buying, and although she could not find any defects, recommended that it be further evaluated by a plumber and recommended that I inform myself about some lawsuits. Why did she do that?

A: Your home inspector made a recommendation this is becoming increasingly common in the home inspection industry. It is important to remember that the inspector could only view visible plumbing, not plumbing hidden in walls, ceilings and floors. PB (polybutylene) supply plumbing is the subject of several ongoing and active lawsuits alleging pipe and pipe fitting deficiencies.

Between six and ten million homes in the United States are thought to have been completely plumbed with PB plumbing, mostly during the 1970’s and 1980’s though some homes continue to be plumbed using PB. Progressively larger numbers of insurance carriers are beginning to require higher insurance premiums for homes containing PB plumbing. Other carriers will not insure homes with PB plumbing at all. Homes with PB plumbing may sell for less, reflecting the cost of replumbing them.

Before we become alarmed lets clarify what PB plumbing isn’t. It is supply plumbing, not waste plumbing. It is not PEX (cross linked polyethylene) plumbing which is usually bright red or bright blue. It is not PVC (polyvinyl chloride) or CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) plumbing which is usually white, off white or pale yellow color. PB plumbing can be white, silver or black, but is usually a gray color local homes. Many area mobile homes are plumbed with PB as are some houses locally.

Home inspectors are generalists, not specialists. They can identify the apparent presence of PB plumbing and inform their clients of its existence in their prospective home. Therefore, most of them recommend a specialist, a qualified, licensed plumber to confirm that it is PB plumbing and whether or not it is the particular brand that is subject of ongoing lawsuits. Many local plumbing firms are familiar with the removal and rebate process and can be very helpful. Some plumbing contractors specialize in PB removal and replumbing of existing homes which can be challenging due to the fact that these homes are finished and occupied.

What Does This Mean?

Q: My home inspection report says that the inspector only tested a representative number of electrical outlets. Shouldn’t he have inspected them all?

A: Your inspection report is in accord with the published Standards of Practice of the American Society of Home Inspectors and with the standards of most home inspection associations. This standard requires inspection of “a representative number of installed lighting fixtures, switches, and receptacles.” It is usually impossible to inspect all electrical receptacles due to stored items, furniture, appliances and sometimes, big dogs.

 

Most inspectors make a diligent effort to test all the receptacles that are accessible. If an untested receptacle is later found to be deficient, the repair is usually a minor one. Home inspections never find each and every deficiency a home has, but inspectors do their best to discover as many as they physically can.

Plastic Plumbing Vrs. Copper Plumbing

Q: I have read that homes with plastic plumbing have serious leakage problems. When buying a home should we look for houses with only copper plumbing?

A: You are likely referring to polybutylene plumbing. This type of plastic supply plumbing is the subject of ongoing class action suits against the manufacturers alleging leakage problems. There is continuing debate as to whether design or installation flaws are to blame. Locally, this is usually a grey colored pipe.

 

Most supply plastic plumbing used locally in new construction or re-plumbing is PEX (cross linked polyethylene) or CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride). There are no known deficiency issues with these types of plumbing and they have a good track record locally.

One great feature of some plastic plumbing systems is the availability of a central plumbing manifold whereby the homeowner may shut off any plumbing fixture for repair or maintenance much as you would shut off a breaker in your electrical panel. This is far more convenient than having to shut off the water supply to the entire home to do a repair.

In-slab copper supply plumbing has been increasingly troublesome in southwest Florida and in other geographical pockets throughout the country. Pinhole leaks develop in the copper piping which is notoriously difficult and expensive to repair buried as it is within the concrete slab. Unfortunately, there is no way to predict these failures, though some neighborhoods appear to be more susceptible than others. Nor is there any consensus as to whether poor quality copper, acidic water, installation defects or some sort of galvanic or chemical reaction, or a combination thereof, is causing the ever escalating leakage problems in copper supply piping.

In view of the above, many well informed consumers actually prefer PEX or CPVC plastic plumbing to the traditional copper supply plumbing systems. I do too.

Should We Get This Inspected?

Q: We are in the process of purchasing a home. The sellers have filled out a disclosure form and everything seems to be in good order. The sellers seem to be knowledgeable and honest. I can’t see any advantage in having the property professionally inspected.

                        

A: In my experience, sellers, even those who are knowledgeable and meticulously honest are not fully informed of their home’s condition. When was the last time the seller walked the roof, crawled through the attic or traveled the crawl space? Is the seller qualified to evaluate electrical systems and air conditioning? Does he have the tools to do so, such as circuit testers, and infrared thermometers? Compare the home inspection experience of the seller to a home inspector. Some local home inspectors have inspected five, six, seven thousand or more properties in their careers. Inspectors who are members of ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) and FABI (Florida Association of Building Inspectors) are required to take continuing education classes to stay up to date on new construction techniques and are conversant with emerging problems of older home systems and construction materials. Well informed, honest and sincere sellers are often surprised to learn of deficiencies and safety hazards in their home. A professional inspection is still recommended.

Should the Inspector Walk the Roof?

Q: When calling to arrange a home inspection, I was informed that the inspector would not walk the roof. Is that normal?

A: No. The American Society of Home Inspectors Standards of practice do provide this limitation, "Inspectors are NOT required to: 1. perform any procedure or operation that will, in the opinion of the inspector, likely be dangerous to the inspector or other persons or damage the property or its systems or components." However, this would typically be applied to a roof which is covered in snow or ice, which almost never happens in southwest Florida or to a very steep roof which is also a rarity. Occasionally a roof is in such poor condition that is dangerous to walk on.

The photograph above is a good example of a deficiency that inspector would miss. This was invisible from the ground, but a potentially serious problem.

 

FPE Breaker Panels. Why the Concern?

Q: My home inspector identified an FPE breaker panel in the home I am buying, and although he could not find any problems, recommended that it be further evaluated by a qualified electrician. Why did he do that?

A: Your home inspector has made a recommendation that is becoming increasingly common with regard to FPE (Federal Pacific Electric) ‘Stab-Lok” electric panels. This in spite of the fact that no regulatory authority has stated that these panels are unsafe and that they have never been recalled.

Federal Pacific Electric was a major manufacturer of electrical distribution products for three decades, from the mid 1950’s to the mid 1980’s. There are many millions of FPE breakers in use today. Many homes in Charlotte County have them.

There is increasing evidence from the field as reported by home inspectors and electricians throughout the country that FPE breakers fail to trip when a short circuit occurs or in an overcurrent situation. These are the two conditions electric breakers are designed to protect us from. In both instances fire, death or injury could be the result. There are an abundance of authoritative studies of this product by third parties confirming these reports which can be found on the internet.

In 1984, the Consumer Product Safety Commission conducted an investigation into FPE breakers that did not answer safety questions to the satisfaction of most observers. The Commission’s report is easily found on the internet. Understandably, the manufacturer made a defense of its product. The report states that “The Commission staff believes that it currently has insufficient data to accept or refute [the manufacturer’s] position. . . Based on the Commission’s limited budget . . . the Commission has decided not to commit further resources to its investigation of FPE’s circuit breakers.”

One claim that the Commission did not have the financial resources to refute is a representation by the manufacturer, “. . . that FPE breakers will trip reliably at most load levels . . .” Read that statement carefully and decide if that is sufficient protection for your home and family. Most home inspectors have decided that it is not. Would you drive a car in which the brakes work reliably in most situations? Or would you climb a ladder that the manufacturer certifies is safe most of the times you climb it?  It is the exceptions that cause injuries.

Therefore, many home inspectors are recommending further evaluation by a qualified electrician. Home inspectors are general inspectors and refer the specialized inspections to the experts. When they identify potential hazards, they recommend further evaluation. They believe that this is in the best interests of their clients.

More A/C Questions

Q: Do I need to change out the interior air handler when I replace the exterior A/C condenser unit?

A: It is best to replace both units. When they are replaced together, they are well matched and operate more efficiently. A new air handler can pay for itself in electrical cost savings and future repair and maintenance bills.

Q: I will have to replace my central air conditioning soon. I’ve been reading about SEER ratings. What are they?

A: SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. It is a measure of energy efficiency. Most air conditioners installed in the 1980’s had a Seer rating of 6-9. More recent installations had a rating of 10. Most new homes are at 12 SEER due to the trend of installing more windows. In January, A/C manufacturers started complying with a federal law mandating a minimum of 13 SEER. However, equipment with a much higher rating is available. When shopping for a new air conditioner buy the highest SEER rating you can afford with an eye to the payback time in electrical cost savings. Another useful rating is the SHR, Sensible Heat Ratio which is a rating of potential for humidity removal. This is also a good factor to weigh in our climate. Your licensed HVAC contractor can help you with these decisions. Ask him to provide you with a good, better and best option on new equipment.

Shingles, One Layer or Two?

Q: I need a new asphalt shingle roof. I can save money by shingling over the existing shingles rather than tearing them off and starting over. What do you recommend?

A: Adding a layer of shingles over an existing layer can save the labor costs of tearing off the existing shingles and disposing of them. Most municipalities allow two layers of shingles to be installed. However, there are some drawbacks that you will want to consider.

1)     If the existing shingles have aged to the degree of curling, clawing or cupping due to age, the new layer of shingles will not have a smooth appearance. They will mirror the imperfections of the old roof underneath.

2)     The new layer of shingles cannot be fastened as securely as if they had been applied directly to the roof sheathing through the underlayment. The nails need to be longer to penetrate the original layer of shingles. Nailing more directly to roof sheathing provides much better mechanical fastening.

3)     A second layer of shingles will double the weight bearing on the roof structure; perhaps more than double it if a heavier raised profile shingle is used over the older, lighter three tab type of shingle. Most roof structures are designed to accommodate that extra weight, but in a hurricane prone area like ours, do you really want to increase loads on your roof structure?

4)     The new layer of shingles will not last as long as they would have had they been installed directly over roof sheathing. This is because they cannot be adequately ventilated and cooled by attic air. Extra heat accelerates shingle deterioration. The old, original layer of shingles impedes ventilation and cooling to the new layer. Roof life is reduced

5)     The old layer of shingles may obscure roof sheathing decay or pest damage which could have been discovered if the shingles had been torn off. Shingling over deteriorated roof sheathing seriously compromises the integrity of the roof’s water resistance and the roof structure itself. That critically shortens its lifespan.

Home inspectors routinely report if there is more than one layer of shingles on a roof surface to prospective buyers. Some buyers view multiple roof layers as a liability when shopping for a home, knowing that the serviceable lifespan of the roof is foreshortened.

In view of the above, long term savings on a superior roof which gives many more years of service may outweigh financial savings today. You will want to take all factors into consideration.

More Uses for Thermal Cameras

This swimming pool pump motor should have a normal operating temperature of 40 degrees Celcius as per the manufacturer's label.

The infrared thermal camera shows that the actual temperature of this particular pump is more than 50% higher. Why? When wear and friction are present, more heat is produced and we now know that this pump is near the end of its lifespan.

Again, the thermal camera discovers problems otherwise invisible to the naked eye.

Common A/C Questions

Here are questions home inspectors regularly answer with regard to central air conditioning systems.

Q: How often should I add gas to my A/C system?

A: You should never have to add refrigerant to your A/C system. If it is low on refrigerant, there is a leak in the system that requires immediate servicing. It is illegal to allow refrigerant to escape into the atmosphere.

Q: Should I close A/C vents in rooms I don’t often use?

A. No. Electrical savings, if any, will be very small.  Shutting off A/C diffusers throws the system out of balance and lowers cooling efficiency. This can raise humidity levels and make your home less comfortable.

Q: One cold evening in December when I turned on the heat, I noticed a burning smell. I shut it off immediately. Do I need to get the air handler serviced?

A: A burning smell is normal the first time you turn on the heat during the winter season. Resistive heat strips in air handlers look very much the heat strips in your toaster. During the summer, dust can settle on them and then burn off when they are energized for the first time. The smell should subside in a few minutes. If it doesn’t, shut the air handler off and call an HVAC contractor for servicing. Changing your filters regularly can minimize the dust traveling through your A/C system. Check your filter monthly.